How to Take Off a Door Knob With No Screws

A door knob with no exposed screws.

High-end door knobs and lock sets use a unique installation style that hides mounting screws from view. When you first look at this style of door knob, it appears as if it cannot be removed from the door. Knowing what to look for on the surface of the knob will lead you to the extra steps required to remove the lock set from the door. Performing the removal incorrectly could damage the door knob assembly and possibly the finish of the door.

1

Open the door. Look for a thin slot or a recessed hex-head setscrew on the lock side of the doorknob.

2

If the knob has a recessed setscrew, turn the setscrew counterclockwise with a correctly sized hex-head wrench until the door knob slides from the section of the knob body attached to the door. If the knob instead has a thin slot, push the end of a small flathead screwdriver into the slot and pull the door knob from the knob body.

3

Pull the rose cover off the knob body. Some styles of door knob will have another thin slot that requires a small screwdriver to free the cover from the door.

4

Turn each screw holding the knob body to the door with a Phillips screwdriver. Keep one hand on the outside section of the door knob to keep it from falling on the floor. Pull the screws from the door. Both sides of the knob will now be free.

Things You Will Need

• Hex-head wrench
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver

How Low Should You Hang a Ceiling Fan?

Ceiling fans require a minimum clearance from both the floor and ceiling for safe, effective performance.

Ceiling fans work on the same principle as the wind chill factor: A stiff breeze on a chilly day makes it feel colder to anyone standing out in it than the temperature displayed on the thermometer would otherwise indicate . A ceiling fan circulating air down from the ceiling can make rooms feel as much as four degrees cooler than the actual room temperature. Adequate downward airflow is the key to this effect. One of the factors influencing ceiling fan airflow is the distance of the fan from the ceiling above and the floor below. The vertical placement of the fan can also have potential safety consequences for taller occupants in a home with low ceilings. With most ceiling fans, the situation of the unit is determined by the length of the downbar that suspends the fan motor assembly from the ceiling.

Seasonal Rotation

Ceiling fans circulate air at low speed and high volume. The large paddle blades angled at a pitch between 10 and 16 degrees rotate slowly so papers are not blown around nor activities disrupted in the room. In the summer cooling mode, the blades turn counter-clockwise, pulling air along the ceiling into the fan and directing it straight down into the room to cool occupants. In the winter setting, clockwise rotation draws air up from the floor, displacing layers of warm air trapped at the ceiling out toward the walls, then down into living spaces to provide warmth.

How High Is Too High?

In cooling mode, at least eight inches of clearance between the fan and the ceiling is required to allow optimum airflow into the fan blades. For every two inches of ceiling clearance below this minimum, airflow through the fan decreases by as much as 25 percent. Most ceiling fans come with three-inch downrods that suspend the fan blades eight inches from the ceiling. In a room with a standard eight-foot ceiling, this leaves approximately 7 feet 4 inches of clearance from the floor.

How Low Should You Go?

While the National Electrical Code (NEC) standardizes ceiling fan installation issues such as junction boxes for proper support, the NEC includes no specific language stipulating ceiling fan height. Generally speaking, however, the code recognizes manufacturer’s standards for acceptable installation of products when these are backed by testing, inspection and product evaluation. If an installation conflicts with the preponderance of reputable manufacturer’s recommendations, it may be assumed to be in conflict with the NEC. Installation procedures provided by most ceiling fan manufacturers, as well as the recommendation of the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, state that fans should be installed so blades are suspended no lower than seven feet from the floor.

Alternative Installations

In rooms with ceilings too low to afford seven feet of clearance when the fan is suspended from a standard 3-inch downrod, “hugger fans” that mount directly to the ceiling, with no downrod, may provide sufficient space. However, because these units have less than the optimum eight-inch clearance from the ceiling, airflow and performance is decreased. As a final option to reduce the danger of contact with blades in rooms with low ceilings, large furniture such as tables may be positioned so that occupants of the room cannot walk directly beneath the blades.

How to Antique a Door

Mulitple colors of paint, sanded, give a plain door an antique look.

For those who enjoy the look and craftsmanship found in homes from days gone by, even the doors of old homes carry a warmth and quality often not present in standard modern doors. Some modern doors are designed to have the same style as antique doors, but simply look too new. Faux-painting techniques and a little distressing of the wood or finish makes that new door look like an antique. As an added element of fun, apply coats of paint in varying colors, allowing layers to show through as you sand away some of the paint, adding history to your work of art.

1

Open the door to a position in which both sides can be reached. Place old newspapers beneath the door. Cover windows, if any, handles and other hardware with painter's tape and newspaper to protect them.

2

Sand the door gently with a medium- to fine-grit sanding block to create a grippable surface for the paint. Sand both sides of the door, as well as the edges, if you intend to paint those areas. Otherwise, only sand the side to be painted. Wipe the dust away with a tack cloth.

3

Stir the all-in-one primer/paint with a stir stick, pouring the liquid into a paint tray. Apply the primer with a wide paintbrush, covering one or all both sides of the door and edges, as desired. Allow the primer/paint to dry completely.

4

Rub a candle over the edges, corners and as much of the door as possible to create a thin wax layer on the door. Brush away excess wax with your hand.

5

Stir the second color of paint and pour it into a paint tray. Coat the primed surfaces of the door with the top paint color, using a paintbrush. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly. Apply a second coat of paint as desired, allowing it to dry as well.

6

Sand the corners, edges and other areas of the door prone to the most handling, such as the areas around the lock or doorknob, using a fine or medium-grit sanding block. Sand enough so the first paint color shows through in some areas, even down to the wood if you like in a few places. Wipe the door down with a tack cloth.

7

Mix half water, half dark brown latex paint in a small disposable container, stirring it with a stir stick. Apply the paint to the door in quick, bold strokes of the paint brush. Rub most of the watery paint away with a clean rag. This enhances the look of age on the door.

Things You Will Need

• Old newspaper
• Painter's tape
• Medium to fine-grit sanding block
• Tack cloth
• Latex all-in-one primer and paint
• Stir stick
• Paint trays
• Wide paintbrushes
• Candle
• Dark brown latex or acrylic paint (optional)
• Water
• Small container

Tip

• Quality paintbrushes shed less hair than inexpensive brushes.
• Antiquing a door can take on any look you'd like -- if you prefer the wood to show rather than be completely covered in paint, rubbing over it with a watered down, dark or white latex paint -- depending if you prefer a dark look or shabby chic look -- also adds the look of age.
• When the door has trim pieces or architectural elements, painting them in an alternate color, sanding away a good bit of the second color once the paint dries, adds to the aged look of the door.
• To create even more wear and tear to the look of the door before painting, file or sand away some of the wood on corners or protrusions, as if the door has been chipped years ago.
• An inexpensive wax candle suffices for the waxing process; the wax simply makes it easier to sand off the top coat of paint.

Warning

• Too much paint on the edge of the door may cause the door not to close properly.

Requirements for a FHA Mortgage

FHA loan requirements assess the income and fixed expenses of applicants.

The Federal Housing Administration insures the loans of low- to moderate-income borrowers so FHA-approved lenders can offer lower down payments, lower closing costs and more flexible credit requirements. FHA loan down payments, for instance, can be as low as 3.5 percent of the property's selling price. The FHA enforces requirements to screen unreliable borrowers who can't afford to carry a mortgage.

Debt Ratios

The FHA requires borrowers to have a maximum debt-to-income ratio of 41 percent. This means that your fixed expenses such as credit card payments, car loans and insurance premiums cannot amount to more than 41 percent of your gross income.

Credit

FHA-approved lenders must assess the credit history of potential borrowers to determine if they are reliable borrowers. Although the FHA's credit requirements are more flexible than most lenders, it still requires borrowers to meet credit rating standards. Eligible borrowers must demonstrate a track record of timely payments. For example, according to the FHA's underwriting handbook, borrowers with credit scores lower than 500 do not qualify for an FHA loan. Borrowers who file for a Chapter 13 bankruptcy propose a repayment plan to satisfy creditors. Borrowers who file for a Chapter 7 bankruptcy, on the other hand, do not pay for unsecured loans and must liquidize nonexempt assets to pay for secured debts. Those who are paying off their debts through a Chapter 13 bankruptcy proceeding can apply for an FHA loan if they are current on their payments and have a written recommendation from the court's trustee. However, borrowers who have filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy must wait two years from the discharge date to apply for an FHA mortgage.

Mortgage Insurance

The FHA requires all borrowers to purchase mortgage insurance, which costs an initial premium of 1.5 percent of the loan's total balance plus a 0.5 percent premium that is payable annually. Mortgage insurance covers the FHA from financial losses incurred when borrowers default on their mortgage payments.

Loan Limits

The FHA sets loan limits in different geographic areas that determine the maximum FHA loan amount for which borrowers can apply. For instance, the loan limit for an FHA mortgage in San Francisco is $729,750. You can find the FHA mortgage loan limit for your area at the Department of Housing and Urban Development website.

DIY: Painting Interior Walls

Make a checklist for necessary tools and supplies.

Preparation and planning are the keys to successful interior wall painting on a commercial or residential property. Use color wheels from the paint store to determine what shades will complement the interior and make the most of features like wainscoting and window frames. Get expert advice from paint store professionals about what brands work best for specific materials. Higher-quality paints save money in the long run because they resist cracking and peeling.

Wall Preparation

It's important to take certain steps to ensure good results when painting interior walls. Obtaining a smooth, even finish is possible only when the wall has been properly cleaned, sanded and primed. Remove all hardware and doors from the areas in advance and repair any gouges or scratches in the walls. Proper masking of trim and baseboards will pay off with sharp, crisp lines that give rooms a well finished look.

Benefits of Work Stations

By taking the time to set up all your equipment before you begin interior wall painting, the task can be completed quickly and with minimum effort. Create a central work station for the tools, ladders, brushes, rollers, drop cloths, rags and buckets you need ahead of time. Make plastic paths from the rooms you plan to paint to your work station in case you get paint on your shoes.

Significance of Good Equipment

As with most things in life, the better the equipment, the better the results. Good-quality paintbrushes cost more, but they deliver the paint onto the surface much more evenly and with less effort than inferior brushes. The same concept holds true for the more expensive sheepskin roller covers, because they require less paint to cover more area, especially on textured walls. Look for bargains only on disposable items, like paint buckets, drop cloths and trim tape.

Considerations

When painting an interior room, make a preliminary plan of the steps you will need to complete the job. Apply primer to closets and shelves and allow to dry. If the ceiling is going to be a different color from the walls, paint it first. Once the walls, ceilings and closets are finished, tackle the window frames, baseboards and door jams. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before reattaching hardware and doors to prevent peeling.

Paint Types

Seek professional advice on what types of paints are best for your locale. Water-based acrylics that can stand up to heavy humidity like the bathroom do not work well in bedrooms and dining rooms Achieve a decorative effect by contrasting a high-gloss paint on a wooden accent trim in a bedroom that has walls painted with flat paint. Satin and semi-gloss paints are easy to clean and work well in high-traffic areas like kitchens and family rooms.

Should You Plug Anything Else in With a Refrigerator?

Some manufacturers say to put your refrigerator on a dedicated circuit.

Whether you can plug something else into the same wall receptacle as a refrigerator depends on a number of variables. There are no rules in the National Electric Code or any local electric code that require a refrigerator to be on a dedicated branch circuit. Some manufacturers, however, specify that their refrigerators be installed on dedicated circuits, and your local planning department may require you to follow those recommendations.

Noncontinuous Duty Loads

Refrigerators are considered noncontinuous duty loads. Loads that draw current for less than three hours at a time are allowed to be on the same circuit with other noncontinuous loads, as long as the total load does not exceed the circuit breaker rating.

Nuisance Tripping

A refrigerator, like any motor load, can draw up to six times its running current on start-up, and that can cause nuisance tripping of a circuit breaker depending on what else is on the circuit. That's why some manufacturers may call for a dedicated circuit, which provides for safer operation.

GFCI Protection

No matter if the refrigerator is on its own dedicated circuit or on a general-purpose receptacle circuit, the 2011 edition of the NEC requires that the receptacle be protected by a ground fault current interrupter. The circuit breakers on the service panel protect against circuit overloads and short-circuits, while GFCI protects you against life-threatening shocks due to ground fault conditions, which the circuit breakers do not detect and protect against.

How to Install 12 Volt Landscape Lights

Low voltage lights allow you to highlight special features in your landscape.

Installing low-voltage landscape lights provides an economical way to add dramatic impact and function to your home and outdoor space with minimal effort. Low-voltage landscape lighting is safe and easy to work with, and requires no previous electrical experience. You can showcase particular features in your yard with landscape lights -- light up pathways, outline garden beds or bring ambiance and charm to your yard. Kits provide all the necessary ingredients -- lights, cable, connectors and controls -- for a successful landscape light project.

1

Go outside when it is dark and shine a flashlight on areas that you may want to light up. This will help you visualize how the lights will affect the landscape. Sketch a plan that you can use as an installation guide so that you know where to place the lights. Note where you wish to install the lights and what landscape or other features you wish to illuminate. Select your light styles based on your lighting plan.

2

Calculate the total voltage of your landscape project based on the number and type of lights you wish to install. Select a power pack that will support this voltage. Each power pack has a rating. The wattage of your light project should be 70 percent to 100 percent of the rating.

3

Drive a 24-inch wooden stake close to an outdoor GFCI outlet and secure the control box to the stake using wood screws. If you do not have a ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet, contact a licensed electrician to install one for you.

4

Take the light fixtures out of the kit box and assemble them according to the enclosed directions. Be sure to screw the bulb in tightly and secure the light cover.

5

Lay out the lights and the electrical cable. Position the lights and drive the light stakes halfway into the ground.

6

Connect each light to the cable using a connector cap. Position the cap so that it pierces the cable and makes direct contact with the wire inside. Tighten the connector caps so that they will not work lose.

7

Wait until dark and turn the lights on. Check that all the lights are working properly. Assess the light positioning from several angles in your yard. Make sure that none of the lights creates a harsh glare. Once you are happy with your design, drive the light stakes the rest of the way into the ground.

8

Cut a 6-inch deep trench, using a flat-blade shovel or edger, along the path of the cable, starting at the control box. Make a perpendicular trench from each light fixture to the main cable. Push the cable into the trench with a wooden or plastic ruler. Replace the soil on top of the cable and tamp it down gently with the back of a spade.

9

Set the control box to turn the lights on and off.

What are you interested in planting?

Flowers

Herbs

Fruits

Vegetables

Nuts

Things You Will Need

• Flashlight
• Landscape light kit
• Power pack (transformer)
• Wooden stake, 24 inch
• Hammer
• Wood screws
• Screwdriver
• Flat-blade shovel or edger
• Wooden or plastic ruler

Warning

• Avoid using too many lights; a few well-placed lights have a greater impact than too many lights.

How to Do Marbling on the Wall

Create an elegant marble-wall faux finish with style.

There are myriad ways to accent a focal-point wall. One particularly economical choice is to apply a marble faux finish to create a wall with high-end style for very little money. Faux marble walls add dimension, texture and style to any home, without the weight and cost of authentic marble materials.

1

Select the color palette. Choose one light and one dark color for the faux marble technique. The darker color is for the wall base coat, while the lighter hue represents the marble veins. Colors that are a two or three values away on the same paint color strip create a subtle result. Hues from different color ways result in a dramatic finish.

2

Prepare the wall. Tape door frames, windowsills, baseboards and ceiling areas to protect them from paint. Repair any wall holes with joint compound. Sand the holes when dry until they are flush with the wall surface. Lay down a tarp to keep the floor clean from paint spills and drips.

3

Paint the base-coat layer. Use a 3/8-inch paint roller, and apply a base coat to the wall. Work in long strokes in a "V" pattern to reduce paint streaks. When the base is dry, paint a second coat of paint to create a smooth base for the marble faux finish.

4

Add the marble veins. Take a large feather and dip one edge into the second color of paint. Wipe off any excess. Run the feather along the wall surface in a random pattern to create vein-like markings. Repeat the process until the wall is full of vein streaks.

5

Apply a sponge finish. Mix equal parts of the base coat color and a polyacrylic gloss, and pour it onto a foam plate. Dip a damp sea sponge into the mixture. Pounce the sponge on the vein markings until all veins are lightly covered. Let the paint dry for approximately 10 minutes.

6

Blend the finish. Compress a dry cloth into a ball, and gently blot the entire faux marble wall until all the colors blend. Allow the wall to dry at least one hour.

7

Apply an additional layer of vein markings to the wall. Dip a feather edge in the second color of paint, and run it along the wall in a random pattern to create additional vein streaks. Let the paint dry for for two hours.

8

Add a topcoat of polyacrylic satin on the wall. Apply the topcoat in long, vertical strokes with a roller. Allow it to dry for two hours. When the paint is dry, use a hand sander with fine-grit sandpaper to buff the wall surface. Sand the finish in a gentle, circular motion to reduce streaking. Wipe the wall clean of any sanding residue, and repeat the paint and sanding process two additional times -- for a total of three coats.

9

After three hours of drying time, use a hand sander and fine-grit sandpaper to buff the final topcoat of polyacrylic satin finish. Wipe the wall with a soft cloth to remove any sanding particles.

Things You Will Need

• Latex paint, light color
• Latex paint, dark color
• Painter's tape
• Tarp
• Joint compound
• Putty knife
• Hand sander
• Fine-grit sandpaper
• Paint stir stick
• Paint rollers, 3/8-inch
• Paint roller pans
• Paint can opener
• Large feather
• Polyacrylic gloss topcoat
• Foam plate
• Sea sponge
• Cloths
• Polyacrylic satin topcoat

Tip

• Practice the marble technique on a sample foam board before applying it to the wall to master the process.
• Use the darker paint color as a base coat for subtle vein markings and a soft final appearance.
• Use the lighter paint color as a base coat for more dramatic vein streaks and a more defined vein finish.

Warning

• Wear a sanding mask to prevent inhalation of particles.

How to Remove Paint From Pine Paneling

Pine paneling often has grooves that add visual interest, but these can make paint removal difficult.

Pine is a soft wood that is easily gouged, so take care when you remove paint and other coatings from pine paneling. While sanding can remove one or two coats of paint from pine paneling, you’re often still stuck with paint in the grooves. Chemical paint strippers simplify the process of removing paint from pine paneling because they can get into the tiny cracks and grooves, and are ideal for paneling that has more than a couple of coats of paint. Removing paint from pine paneling is a straightforward task that, with care, most homeowners can accomplish by themselves.

1

Cover furniture and flooring with drop cloths or plastic sheets and apply painter’s tape to trim and molding. Open windows to keep the room ventilated, and put on rubber gloves, safety glasses and a painter’s mask.

2

Brush a generous layer of paint stripper onto the paneling. Work in small sections so that the stripper does not dry before you scrape it off. Brush the stripper on in one direction. Liquid paint strippers are often the most effective formulas to use, but for vertical surfaces such as pine paneling on walls, a gel or paste will not drip or run as easily.

3

Leave the paint stripper on the paneling for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the paint begins to bubble.

4

Scrape the loosened paint with a plastic paint scraper or putty knife. Do not use metal tools to remove paint from pine paneling. The soft wood gouges easily.

5

Scrub paint from grooves using medium to fine steel wool dampened with water. You can also use a stripping pad, which is a textured pad designed for this purpose, found at most paint stores.

6

Rinse the paneling with a towel dipped clean water. You may have to reapply paint stripper if the paneling was coated with several layers of paint.

7

Continue applying paint stripper and scrubbing and rinsing until you remove the paint from the entire surface.

8

Allow the paneling to dry completely. Sand the surface of the paneling with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining paint.

9

Rinse the wood thoroughly a final time water and a clean towel, and dry with more clean towels before covering the paneling with new paint or a protective finish.

Things You Will Need

• Drop cloths
• Painter's tape
• Gel or paste paint stripper
• Safety glasses
• Rubber gloves
• Painter’s mask
• Paintbrush
• Plastic scraper
• Medium to fine steel wool
• Water
• Stripping pad
• Towel

Warning

• The solvents used in paint strippers can be toxic or irritating to the skin and eyes. Wear protective clothing at all times and make sure the room you’re working in has adequate ventilation.